Found a box of Pokémon cards?

What to look for

• Early English sets printed by Wizards of the Coast from 1999 to 2003, starting with Base Set.
• 1st Edition stamps: a small "Edition 1" symbol on the left side of the card, below the artwork.
• Holographic (holo) rares, where the artwork itself is shiny.
• Shadowless Base Set cards, an early print run without the drop shadow along the right side of the art box.
• Sealed product: booster packs, booster boxes and theme decks that were never opened.
• Japanese cards, promos and graded cards in sealed holders.

Condition matters

Check corners, edges, the surface (scratches are common on holo cards) and centering. Cards kept loose in a box or rubber-banded usually show wear. Cards kept in sleeves or binders often do better.

Grading basics

PSA, Beckett (BGS) and CGC all grade Pokémon cards, usually on a 1 to 10 scale. Grading costs money and can take weeks or months, so it only makes sense for cards that would be worth clearly more graded than ungraded.

Where real sold prices come from

Use sold prices: eBay sold listings, TCGplayer's market prices (based on recent sales on that marketplace) and PriceCharting. Match the exact card, set, edition and condition, because a 1st Edition or shadowless version can sell for far more than a later print of the same card.

Fakes are common

Counterfeit Pokémon cards are widespread. Warning signs include wrong colors or fonts, misspellings, unusual card thickness, a glossy feel on non-holo cards, and odd backs. Be especially careful with high-value cards and with sealed products that may have been resealed.

Mistakes to avoid

• Opening sealed packs or boxes to see what's inside.
• Assuming every old Pokémon card is valuable. Most commons and uncommons are not.
• Pricing from asking prices instead of sold prices.
• Mixing up editions and print runs when looking up prices.

This guide is general information, not an appraisal or financial advice. Market prices change.

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